How to make a hatch on the attic with a stairs with your own hands

In addition to cozy rooms, owners of private houses are also worth the task of equipping comfortable use of the attic. After all, this territory can not do without. There you can store a large number of different things: seasonal clothes and shoes, canned blanks for the winter, container, tools and everything that does not have enough space in the house. And when the line finally reaches the attic, the problem arises before us not as the very arrangement of this territory as a comfortable access to it: how to equip a hatch for entrance, a staircase and in what place, etc.

Table of contents:

1. Luke on the attic with a staircase with your own hands
2. Insulated hatch with a stairs to the attic with your own hands
3. Fire -based hatches for entering the attic with your own hands
4. A folding hatch for the attic with your own hands
5. Making a sliding or retractable staircase with your own hands
6. DIY staircase
7. DIY three -section staircase

Luke on the attic with a staircase with your own hands

There is a simple way - the purchase of a finished product. It is not difficult to choose it, but first you need to decide whether it will be folding or stationary. When choosing the second option, the location should be taken into account so that it does not provide inconvenience and the ceiling frame is not violated. There are two types of hatch design: metal and made of wood. The first option is quite heavy and requires insulation, in addition, there should be a strong basis for the mount. The second option is wooden, which has more advantages. Firstly, it weighs less, looks more attractive and easy to install. The attic hatch can be opened in several ways: move apart, move up, sink down. This is already your choice. To open the folding hatch, you need to make efforts, and the lower opening requires the installation of a sliding staircase. Of all the options, it is convenient for a sliding option, but for independent manufacture it is problematic.

For the construction of any wooden structure, thorough measurements are always made.

In order for the use of the hatch to be safe, the box must be correctly and firmly planted. This condition is also mandatory to the hatch. In order to pass through the attic entrance or carry out different objects without harm, there are some rules: a cover from a frame and a bar must have a section of 20x40 mm and upholstery with a thin rail of wood or boards. From the boards of the specified section, a frame with even corners is made. Dimensions according to the standard - 60x120, but you can change them. Next, in the ceiling, an opening of 50-60 mm more for lining with a frame is cut.

The strength of the lid is provided by the spacer set in diagonally. It is attached with self -assembly or corners. In order to avoid heat of warm air from the house, the thermal insulation of the entrance to the attic is necessary. The insulation can be foam or mineral wool, but a vapor barrier is placed on the bottom of the lid. Next, you can start fastening the handles and latches. For a good attachment of the lid, the sealing gum should be attached along the entire length, and from the inside for a beautiful look you can sheathe the frame with a platband. And at the end - the staircase of purchased or mounted with your own hands is installed.

The attic hole consists of 2 elements - doors and boxes, which is the basis of a supporting design for fastening the door and hatch. Strong wooden raw materials are also made. The beam is considered the most durable, because it has clear geometric shapes. The box consists of 4 parts. In the upper part, 1/4 of the width is cut out a place for landing a hatch, instead of cutting the boards, it is already possible to fill the boards instead of cutting - this is already at your discretion. Connect the box sections with bars through the spike-paz system under an inclination of 90 degrees. The docking areas are attached with nails, self -tapping screws or carpentry glue. Such wooden structures should be impregnated with fire agents.

Luke's correspondence criteria:

1. The impeccable functioning of the entire structure.

2. Strength.

3. The presence of accessories for ease of use.

4. Izen -free installation.

5. Sustainable emphasis without sliding.

6. An acceptable slope for a reliable rise and descent.

Types of ladies of the hatch for entering the attic:

• sliding - has a form of folding an accordion;
• bailiff - a regular structure of steps on racks;
• telescopic - the possibility of details to enter each other when folding;
• folding - book folding using sections on hinges.

Insulated hatch with a stairs to the attic with your own hands

The procedure for the manufacture of a warm hatch:

1. A rectangular frame is built in size, which are smaller from the opening of 45-55 mm from all sides for lining with a frame.

2. The frame is sewn with a piece of plywood, a wooden grill or fiberboard.

3. The vapor barrier film is laid on the base, and foam or mineral wool on top. All this material for insulation is glued or fixed with strips. The reverse side is broken by OSP, FEP or plywood.

4. The hinges are screwed with self -wraps on the assembled hatch.

5. In the entire length of the frame, sealing rubber is inserted, and the opening is sewn with platbands.

Fire -based hatches for entering the attic with your own hands

Private houses are the first to fall into risk to fire safety, since most building material is wood. That is why the fire hatch on the attic - provides an opportunity to escape in case of fire if there are no other options to get out. Its advantage over wood is that it has a metal frame, compacted not by burning material, but a steel door. At the same time, it is worth considering the incompatibility of wood and metal. It will be necessary to do preparatory work that will protect the wood from the influence of steel. It all starts with the choice of design. Companies that are engaged in fire safety goods will help to do this.

From the proposed goods, attention should be paid to those that correspond to the technical regulations: fire stability should be from 35 to 65 minutes, the thickness of the steel is 0.9 - 3 mm, the box is equipped with a fire -based thermoreactic seal, which, when heated, will expand and does not allow penetration of smoke and fire. In addition, it does not miss drafts. Inside there should be refractory slabs, mineral wools.

The latter require verification verification and, if necessary, replacement is made. All accessories must have resistance to heating, in order to use it if necessary. There are systems with a wide handrail and automation for closing and opening. Fire hatch can have individual parameters. The cushioning material between the metal box and wood is selected separately.

Further, as always, it all starts with the markings of the circuits with the abandonment of allowances 5-6 cm, which will be compensation for the shrinkage of the house. For marking, use nails - drive 4 pieces so that the sharp end comes from the back.

The marking of the contours on both sides at once will lead to curvature. After cutting, the opening around the perimeter is treated with protective equipment, the grooves of the opposite side are compacted with a harness, but first the tree is covered with vapor barrier.

Before constructing the box, the fire hatch is dismantled to separate sections. A beam, 55 mm thick is installed in the selected groove. The gaps can be found with mounting foam. Next, the long sections of the box are first attached, and then-short.

For normal shrinkage, the box does not screw much. At first, fixing the handle on the door and other components screw the door itself and then install the loops. After that, you can cut out extra ledges. Without fail, this design must be tested many times by opening and closing and lubricated the nodes. Silicone lubricant is suitable, which will not allow the resulting condensate. And at the end - attach the stairs.

A folding hatch for the attic with your own hands

Advantages of the folding structure:

• saving space, there is a free space for other purposes;
• compactness and ease of operation.

Folding staircase quality criteria:

• good strength of the material, as well as connecting nodes and mounts;
• the weight of the stairs should be relatively light in order to prevent the load of the attic overlap;
• easy to use so that each family member can easily lay it out and fold it;
• all devices should have easy functionality.

Why should a folding device for entering the attic should be made independently? Due to the fact that ready -made folding hatches are designed for less intensive use, they have a limited life resource. In addition, the stairs are mostly cool and the rise or descent on them becomes unsafe, and even more so with objects in their hands. With independent manufacture, their own calculations of the construction of the stairs are made, a slope that is convenient for you is taken into account.

Making a sliding or retractable staircase with your own hands

Option one

In the attic overlap on the board lying across and forming the box, the upper section of the device is fixed with the flange. Each section when added is moved into the above part and is laid in a horizontal position on the floor. To hide the entire stairs, the hatch is fixed in the short and highest section. A separate closing of the hatch is also possible, that is, from the beginning, the staircase comes into the attic, and behind it the hatch closes. If the attic is not used often, this option is more convenient.

Option Second

The design is assembled from 2 sections, it is long and, when laying, rests on the floor and short - fixed on the hatch cover. Such a structure involves lowering the stairs along with the opening of the hatch.

Production recommendations:

• the location of the steps parallel to the floor;
• In order to safely use, the distance between them should not be large;
• The standard steps are 6.5 cm, designed for an adult;
• The optimal size of the width of the staircase - 90 cm.;
• The tree for the manufacture of the stairs should be dry, but not too desirable not processed. It is better to varnish yourself;
• If the material is metallic, then it is worth considering that some elements are corroded due to the difference from the elements of fastening in a wooden staircase;
• Wooden structures are used at the permissible load of not more than 150 kg, metal up to 255 kg;
• The lowered staircase will not withstand the load if it does not have an emphasis on the floor;
• In folded form, the stairs should be fixed with brackets;
• When buying fasteners, the quality of the material is important.

Before making the stairs, you need to calculate the dimensions of the device and the installation location. The next step will be frozen and its height. The railing, steps, the distance from the ceiling to the floor and the angle of inclination of the stairs are also measured.

The formula of the total length of the structure:

height+angle \u003d total length

So, the upper section should have the length larger than the lower. Two short bars should be attached over the hole.

The width of the bars and stairs should match. For stability, the entire device is fixed with bars along the diagonal line. The short section is attached to the upper loops. Make sure that the staircase folds in the right direction. Fix it on the wall with a hook. Fold the lower part and put on the wall, then fasten the hook. The loop clicks above the sawing site. So that the steps are not slippery - attach the rubber strips.

Regulatory parameters for a folding staircase

DIY staircase

1. The entire length of the stairs is divided into 3 sections.

2. The first section and hatch should be the same, the second is slightly smaller than the first.

3. The corners are measured.

4. Use the measurement data for the marks of the steps on the boards.

5. Between the sections, holes for a hinge are made.

6. The faces are polished.

7. In places, the installations of hinges are sawn boards.

8. Wood steps are sanded with emery.

9. The steps are attached with self -tank or glue, and recesses for them are made in bowstrows.

10. The sections are connected by metal loops special for this.

11. The already assembled design is mounted in the opening.

12. After checking for proper functioning, the structure is disassembled and covered with varnish, and assembled back after drying.

DIY three -section staircase

• any staircase is metal or wooden;
• beams 2 pieces;
• self -assembled with clubfoots;
• wood saw and drill;
• rollers;
• hinges, hammer;
• Perforator and roulette.

Production order:

• The length should have a supply of 35 cm with the calculation of inclination.
• Sprinkled into 3 parts.
• If the staircase is made of metal, then dangerous sections are smoothed with molten rubber.
• All three sections are installed on beams, the length of the two should exceed one part of the staircase by 20 cm to attach the hinges.
• The sections are connected in such a way that the opening occurs by an accordion - the first is attached to the second, and then the second with the third through the bottom.
• Now we need to decide which side will be at the top, and which below.
• A tire of rubber is attached to the lower part.
• For slow lowering the stairs, use spring hinges.
• The next step will be the door fastening in such a way that the staircase is folded in a folded form under the lid.
• The lid is made from a piece of plywood, in which the rectangular hole is cut out and mounted on the ceiling with loops.
• For convenient laying out the staircase, a rope or lever is attached.

Luke for the attic is the necessary and useful device, especially if the attic is often used. Therefore, it is worthwhile to equip it modern and most importantly safe.