DIY grinding grid

Did you know that the installation of stone, slate or fence made of metal profile between neighboring summer cottages is prohibited? The fact is that deaf high fences shade a lot of space, preventing the penetration of light. Given the size of the summer cottages, 6 8 acres, where each meter on the account, all plants planted along such fences will hurt and wither. Therefore, complaints of neighbors are inevitable. What to do? A good option to arrange a grid of a rabid grid. It will not prevent the penetration of sunlight and the movement of air masses. Such fences are popular not only among summer residents, but also used to protect technical zones, sports grounds, lakes and other reservoirs, chicken coins and other objects.

1. Types of grid grid
2. How can you make a grid of a rabid grid
3. Pillars for a fence from a mesh of a rabid
4. DIY grinding grid stretch fence
   • Territory marking
   • Installation of pillars
   • Rabitz grid pulling and fixing on pillars
5. DIY section of a section from a grid with your own hands
6. How to make a grid of a rabid: video instruction

Rabitz I got its name in honor of the mason Karl Rabitsa, who made a patent for her invention at the end of the 19th century. True, then it was used to plastered walls. The labycle grid is a low -carbon steel wire, which is woven into a kind of canvas. The wire spirals are screwed into each other with a special machine, which not only knits the net, but also immediately rolls it into rolls.

The price is much lower for a rabitsa grid fence for fences from other materials, which is an indisputable advantage. Any summer resident or rural resident can freely purchase a grid in any construction supermarket, store or in the market, in addition to it will need pillars for fixing the grid and reinforcing bars, a cable or a thick wire 4 6 mm in diameter.

Types of grid grid

To date, there are three types of mesh rabits on the market that differ in manufacturing material:

• Nezinki from black wire. An unpainted mesh of a label made of ferrous metal will not last long, no more than 3 years. At the same time, already three four days after its installation, rust will begin to appear. As a temporary option, such a grid can be purchased with the calculation that later they will put a fence from another material instead or completely remove. Otherwise, a black metal grid must be painted and updated to a colorful layer every 4 5 years.

• Galvanized The labycle grid does not lend itself to corrosion. However, it is not much more expensive than an analogue of ferrous metal. That is why it is very popular.

• Plasticized. This is a mesh made of metal wire, covered with protective anti -corrosion polymer on top. She looks somewhat more aesthetic than previous species and is not afraid of moisture. In our market, such nets appeared relatively recently and have already begun to conquer the summer sections of our compatriots.

In addition to the manufacturing material, the labyfield mesh can differ in the shape of the cells and their size. The form, rectangular, rhomboid or other, does not matter. But the size of the cell is extremely important. It can be from 25 mm to 60 mm. The smaller it is, the less the grid passes the light, more durable and monolithic, but also expensive. A grid with 60 mm cells is not suitable for fencing a chicken coop, since the cells are large enough to climb through them. Therefore, you need to choose a grid of rabid from the calculation for which it will be used. To protect the summer cottage, so that large animals and people can not penetrate, use a mesh with cells of 40 50 mm. This is quite enough.

The cost of the fence from the rabid grid depends on several parameters: the material of the mesh, the size of the cell, the thickness of the wire in the grid and the method of its fastening.

A neocyrected slab grid with dimensions of 50*2.0*10 costs about 28 cu. For a roll of 10 m. In these sizes 50, the size of the cell, 2.0 thickness of the wire. By the way, it can be from 1.0 to 2.0 mm. Accordingly, the thinner the cheaper and lighter the grid, but less durable and durable.

Galled labyfield 50*2.0*10 costs 32 cu For 10 m. Agree, the difference is not so great.

Plasticized labycle grid 50*2.0*10 costs 48 cu For 10 m. This is somewhat more expensive than previous options, it will be invoice for a temporary fence, and for the permanent just right.

How can you make a grid of a rabid grid

There are two ways to arrange a fence from a rabid grid:

• Pull between the pillars;
• Make sections from the corner into which to fix fragments of the grid.

The first method is much easier and cheaper, but less aesthetic and in some way practical.

For the manufacture of sections, additional considerable costs for a metal corner will be required, the cost of which may surpass the cost of the grid. The sectional fence will be more beautiful, stronger, on it it will be possible to dry something or just hang it.

For both methods you will need pillars on which the net will be attached.

What are the fences of the rabid grid: photo examples

Pillars for a fence from a mesh of a rabid

Wooden pillars Easy affordable material in a wooded area, but short -lived. It makes sense to purchase wooden poles or bars only if they are much cheaper than metal ones, or you mount a temporary fence. There are situations when wooden building materials remains after building a house, for example, roof. I do not want to endure unnecessary costs if there is an ownerless material.

To arrange pillars for the fence, wooden bars must be cleaned of the bark. Then they are cut to the required length. Most often, the deepening is performed 10 15 cm below the level of freezing of the soil. So it turns out that the length of the beam will be about 3 m. The entire underground part of the tree must be treated with waterproofing mastic. Fortunately, now the market offers a lot of mastics that do not need to warm up or somehow prepare, just smeared it. The rest of the bars is necessarily painted, otherwise they will rot six months after installation. Consolidation of the netting net to the tree is performed using nails. Of modern materials, you can offer clamps, but they will not be too organically fit into the general view.

Metal pillars They are more preferable, as it is more durable and reliable. Most often, round or square crossing pipes with a diameter of 60 120 mm are used. The thickness of the section should be at least 2 mm. To reduce the cost of building a fence from a mesh of a pipe rabid, you can purchase in the nearest buying out scrap metal. Sometimes there you can choose a good version of water pipes that have lost tightness, but not affected by rust. For the water supply, they cannot be used, and for the fence, their tightness does not matter. Recently, pillars have appeared on sale, already ready for use for the construction of a fence. They are painted with welded hooks. Such pipes will cost somewhat more expensive, but there are many related worries.

Can also be used concrete or asbestos -cement pillars, if they are in stock, but you can fix the grid only with clamps or with a cable, weaving it into a net and a braided pillar.

DIY grinding grid stretch fence

One of the main advantages of net fences is the simplicity of installation, which can be successfully performed together, without having serious construction skills. As an example, we consider the construction of a stretch fence from a rabid grid using metal poles. The width of the grid is 2 m.

Territory marking

First of all, in the corners of the site we install temporary pegs and pull the construction thread or cord between them. We measure the length of the cord. This will be the length of the rabid grid, which should be purchased with a margin of 1 2 meters, just in case.

Now it is necessary to note the places for installing the pillars. The most optimal distance between the pillars is 2 2.5 m, no more, since the mesh of the rabid is bending.

To calculate the number of necessary pillars, we divide the length of each side of the site by 2.5. For example, a length of 47 m. With neither 2 nor 2.5, this value is not divided exactly. When dividing by 2.5, we get 18.8. We have two ways. The first to install 19 pillars at an equal distance from each other, 47/19 \u003d 2.47 m. But it is almost impossible to calculate the place of installation of a column with such accuracy. The second way to set 18 pillars at a distance of 2.5 m, and between the latter to make a distance slightly less. In total, we need to purchase 19 metal pipes.

On the stretched line, we make marks at a distance of 2.5 m from each other. We constantly make sure that they are on a flat line.

Important! If the site has a significant slope, it will not work to build a fence from the grid, as it is poorly attached in an inclined position. The only way out of the situation is terraced. At the site of the height difference, install a more powerful and long pillar, to which the grid section will be attached on one side at the same level, and on the other side at the other. To do this, the grid canvas will have to be divided. The second option to equip a sectional fence.

Installation of pillars

In the places marked under the pillars, the boremas are drill or dig with a shovel. The depth is 1.2 1.5 m. So that the pillars do not move during the spring swelling of the soils, they must be installed below the depth of freezing of the soil by 15 20 cm, i.e. to a depth of 0.8 1.2 m.

The first to install the corner poles, since they will be the largest pressure, and even uneven. At the bottom of the well we pour a layer of crushed stone and carefully compact. Then a layer of sand and also ram off.

Then we install the pipe, having previously treated the underground part with anti -corrosion mastic. We prepare a cement mortar from one part of the sand and two parts of cement. Mix, then add two parts of the crushed stone and mix again, pour water and interfere again. It is important to control so that the solution is not too liquid. Then pour the solution into the hole around the pipe.

Important! Be sure to control the vertical location of the pillar using a plumb line.

We pierce the concrete with a bayonet with a bayonet, settling and compacting it. The second in the row we set the corner column from the opposite side. Then all the other pillars according to the described technology, be sure to control the evenness of their location relative to each other. To do this, we have a thread on it and check it.

Further work can be continued only after complete hardening of concrete, i.e. a week later.

Sometimes metal pillars do not concrete, but simply fall asleep into the empty space of the pit layer of a bottle stone or savage, thoroughly trim, then fall asleep with a layer of soil, also trim, and on top again a lamb stone. This method of fixing is also good, the pillars are tightly fixed in adjacent planes. You can add a little concrete to the last layer of stone, this will increase the strength of the structure.

Rabitz grid pulling and fixing on pillars

When the concrete dries, we weld hooks on the pillars, on which we will fix the rabid grid. To do this, you can use nails, screws, a thick wire, pieces of a rod or other improvised material that can be bent into a hook.

The next stage in the manufacture of a fence from a net of a net pulling the grid. First of all, straighten the roll. Then we install it near the first corner pillar. We fix the net, hanging it on hooks. For greater strength in the first row of mesh cells (in an upright position), we thread a thick wire or a reinforcing rod with a cross section of 3 4 mm. After hanging the net on hooks, we weld this rod to the pipe. This will not allow the grid to sag and bend.

We open the net for one span to the nearest pillar. A little further than the junction of the grid with the pillar we extend the rod into it in an upright position. Holding on to it, we will pull on the grid. If we just pull it with our hands, the tension will be uneven. Together, one closer to the upper edge, the other to the lower, pull the grid. For convenience, you can invite the third participant in the process that will put on the net on the hooks at this time.

Then we stretch the rods, cable or wire in a net in a horizontal plane at a distance of 5,000 from the upper edge and also from the lower. Sometimes it is advised to use 5 rods at an equal distance from each other. We weld them to the pillar. These rods will serve as a support support for a support so that it does not sag over time.

We repeat the procedure for all other pillars, acting on the same algorithm: we pull, fix it, stretch the rod, weld.

Important! Do not go around the corner pillars with a net. It is better to fix it on the pole, disconnect, fix the cells of the second part of the canvas and continue to pull the grid with a separate canvas. This is necessary in order to reduce the load on the poles.

One mesh roll may not be enough to close all the spans between the pillars. There may be such a situation that there was a meter of mesh, and until the next pillar is 2.5 m. In this case, we take out the wire from the extreme row of the grid, apply the ending canvas to the new roll and weave the wire between them. The result should be a continuous grid without seams.

When the entire site is fenced with a fence, we bend the hooks on all pillars. If there is a piece of the non -added grid, we take out the wire, disconnecting the net, retreating one cell after fixing on the pillar.

The last bar must be painted so that they are not corroded. If you do not plan to use welding, but to fix the grid with clamps or wire, then you can paint the pillars before the start of the grid pulling work.

The upper antennae of the wire from which the net is made, we twist each other by one or two turns and wrap down so that they do not injure anyone. Sometimes in the upper row of cells the cable or wire is threaded and wire mustache is twisted around it. On this is our fence from the grid of the rabid is ready.

DIY section of a section from a grid with your own hands

A similar device from the mesh of the rabid differs from the stretch with the presence of the frame of the sections in which the mesh is mounted.

The first stages of work: marking and installation of pillars are no different from the arrangement of a stretch fence. Pillars should be a little stronger, since they will have to bear a much larger load.

We purchase a corner of 30*4 or 40*5 mm. From it we weld the frame for the fence sections. To do this, from the distance between the pillars we take away 10 20 cm, it will be the length of the frame. From the height of the pillar above the ground level we also take away 10 15 cm, it will be the width of the frame. We weld the corners in the form of a rectangle.

Then we unwind the roll of the grid of the rabid. If there is a need, reduce its size in height to the necessary, cutting off the excess grinder. The second option to make the size of the section 2 m (in the width of the grid) and unfold the mesh roll in an upright position, disconnecting the excess from the bottom.

In the extreme row we stretch a rod with a cross section of 4 5 mm. We weld it to the vertical stance of the frame from the corners. Then we spread the rods in the upper and lower row of the grid, carefully pull it and also weld the rods to the horizontal corners of the frame. We also act with the last vertical counter. As a result, we should get a section cooked from a corner, inside which a grind of rabid is welded on the rods.

We weld metal stripes 15 30 cm long, 5 cm wide and 5 mm with a cross -section in a horizontal position. From the upper and lower edge of the pillar we retreat 20 30 cm. We set the section between the pillars and weld it to the lanes.

After all welding work, the fence must be painted.

As you can see, it is not so difficult to make a rabid grid to make a rabid grid. Patience will be needed, two three people and a good mood. And if you don’t understand the description with the words of the technology for installing a fence, we suggest watching a visual video.

How to make a grid of a rabid: video instruction